Wednesday, February 16, 2011

A new country, a new life

So it’s been over two weeks since I’ve been in Morocco. So much has been going on with settling into a new country, a new school, a new home. I haven't had time to update but I am super psyched that my blog post on Egypt got over 1000 hits- thanks so much for reading!

So what’s been going on? Let me start off with something I’ve realized since I’ve been here. In 2008, I had applied to study in Fes, Morocco. My parents hated the idea, the loan had a 14% interest rate, and my grades were barely high enough to study abroad. I planned and planned but in the end, nothing came together and all my planning was for nothing. Somehow today I ended up in Morocco without any plans to be here, on a full scholarship, witnessing the most exciting times in the Middle East, and only three months away from graduating with honors. Thus, I’ve learned that the things you want come together in due time, insh’Allah. God willing.

There have been lots of changes since I was evacuated from Cairo to Greece to Morocco. It’s been quite an adjustment but I’m finally beginning to settle in and learn the ways of this city. I’m living in Rabat, the capital, a small, modern residential looking city with a population of about 650,000. One of the biggest changes is that my roommate Lauren and I live with a Moroccan family: the mother Meriam, the father Amir, and two little sisters Azeeza (6) and Arania (2). They are incredibly warm and welcoming, and treat us like their own. Mi casa, su casa. Our house is in L’Ocean, right next to the beach by the Atlantic Ocean.
They speak decent English so language isn’t a barrier but the lifestyle is very different. The best part is that we have delicious homemade meals throughout the day. I thought Egyptian food was good, but Moroccan food is absolutely divine. It’s mixed with French cuisine so they make salivating entrees, the main one being the traditional tagine which is a stew mixed in with different meat, sauce and spices and served with bread. It’s one huge platter in the center of the table and we all eat with our hands. Below are my little host sisters who are very loud and playful.
Meal hours are also very different. We have breakfast before school in the morning, usually thick toast (kind of like a paratha) with choices of jams, nutella, honey and cheese. Our host mother packs us huge sandwiches for lunch everyday. Around six in the evening is snack and tea time, when we have cakes and pastries served with Moroccan tea. Moroccan tea is delicious, a sweet and minty flavor with Moroccan spices. Dinner is served late at night around 9:30, and the portions are huge. Fridays are known as ‘Couscous Fridays’ and is a special meal reserved for after juma prayers. Needless to say, my jeans no longer fit.

Classes are in Agdal, the posh area of Rabat which is lined with stores and restaurants. It’s about a 15 minute taxi ride from L’Ocean. I’ve switched over from learning Arabic in the Egyptian dialect to the Moroccan dialect which is called darija and is a mix of Arabic and French. Morocco was colonized by the French so almost everyone here speaks French. Ironic that I’m proving my French more than Arabic. I'm very behind on classes after missing two weeks due to switching programs.

Our time here has been very rushed and hectic with catching up in classes, moving into our homes, and touring around the city. Last weekend we had our first excursion, passing through the quaint little town of Azrou, the scenic mid-Atlas mountains, and the snowy city of Ifrane and finally to Fes. Fes is the largest city in Morocco, with a bustling medina and streets lined with souks and restaurants.
I met up with some Fesi friends who I met through my friend Ali in the States. Soumia and Mohammed took us to Palais la Medina, a beautiful restaurant with impressive decor, three course meals, live Moroccan music and performances by dancers, magicians, and even a mock bridal show.
Matthew, Lauren, Abesha and Mohammed all got pulled onto stage to dance. Tinora got pulled up by the magician who pulled strange objects out of her shirt. Don’t ask. And I got pulled upstairs, put into a Moroccan wedding dress and carried over the crowd on a thronelike chair. Hey, if the crown fits. It was a great weekend, with good company and good food.
However, our time here has not been without frustrations. I won’t lie that there haven’t been times when I’ve wished I could just go home because all the changes and culture shocks are so overwhelming. But at the end of the day, this is the trip of a lifetime and I would be a fool to abandon it. The internet here is even flakier than in Cairo and makes me want to pull out all my hair and drop f-bombs like Rahm Emanuel on a bad day. The weather is a lot colder and no indoor heating once again so I sleep with 3 blankets. Rabat is more of a day city so during the week, people begin settling into their homes around 9pm. Much different from Cairo, which opens its eyes at night and is loud and vibrant until the morning.

There are many nearby cities to visit in Morocco and hopefully I will be travelling a lot on weekends. I will be updating with more stories from here on. Pictures from my travels will be up next. The adventure didn’t end with Cairo; on the contrary, a new one has just begun. Stay tuned.